Sunday, September 21, 2014

Dolce & Gabbana hop from Sicily to Spain for spring/summer 2015

So what if the majority of Milan Fashion Week has eddied between 1970's revivalism and menswear-touched minimalism? Dolce & Gabbana, just like Prada and Armani, are comfortable enough in their own skins - and successful enough commercially - to stick to their own formula.

Next summer's collection hopped from Sicily to Spain, a starting point close enough to their roots to allow them easy access to the lodestone tension between the Catholic and the wanton.

The show opened with one girl in an all-black bullfighter's outfit, but with baggy hot pants instead of tight long ones. And it closed with a gang of girls in high-waisted, flower bedecked scarlet shortlets over pure white - but open to the navel - white men's shirts.


In between, the Italians ran the gamut of all black, from mysterious, mantilla-shrouded, floor-length-wearing widow through to lingerie-sprinkled heart-attack catalysts.

To underline the designers' dedication to conjuring up clothes that are the stuff of fantasy, some of the models carried presentation cases containing dolls dressed precisely as they were.

Fur fringed ponchos, flamenco dancer's polka dots sometimes grafted onto carnation embroidery, sacred heart printed silks and one mesmerisingly matte-crotched pair of cyclists-shorts meets torero-trousers furthered this tapas tour through Spanish flavoured Dolce & Gabbana-ness. Pastoral-scene hand-painted skirts and jewel-encrusted jeans widened the angle.



Black lace embroidered jackets and trousers lent the masculine tailoring a richness without overly prettifying it, and twisted red patent leather panels punctuated a long black lace dress like fiery apostrophes.

The poncho-pushing Spanish theme and those dolls apart, every update to Dolce & Gabbana's key proposition was made with the lightest of touches. Yes, perhaps that scarlet panted finale gang wore shoes with a slightly rounder toe than the house-specialty pointed kittens. And the handbags were almost all so tiny they practically counted as purses. These minor tweaks apart though this last big show on the Milan Fashion Week calendar was Dolce & Gabbana set in Hispanic aspic, a finely-perfected recipe tweaked just so.

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